Whale Watching in Tenerife

Local Wisdom, The Day I Saw 50 Pilot Whales

October 2019, Costa Adeje. I was on a catamaran with a marine biologist named Yurena who has been studying Tenerife's cetaceans for 15 years. We were watching a small pod of bottlenose dolphins when Yurena went quiet. She was staring at the hydrophone readout. "Pilot whales," she said. "A big pod." Within ten minutes, we were surrounded. Fifty short-finned pilot whales, calves, juveniles, massive bulls, logging at the surface, spy-hopping to look at us, diving in synchrony. The engine was off. The only sound was their breathing. Yurena was nearly in tears. "In 15 years," she said, "I have seen a pod this size maybe four times." Tenerife's whales are resident, not passing through, this is one of the few places in the world where pilot whales live year-round. But crowds change the experience. Book the 9 AM departure, not the 11 AM. The morning light is better, the sea is calmer, and you get an extra 30 minutes on the water before the afternoon catamarans arrive.

Resident Whales, Not Migrating, Living Here

The first time I saw whales from a hiking trail, I was on the Punta de Teno coastal path in the Teno Massif. I stopped at the lighthouse lookout and saw pilot whales surfacing about 200 metres offshore, their dorsal fins cutting the surface in a rhythm I'd only ever seen from a boat before. Tenerife is one of the few places on Earth where you can see whales from both the trail and the boat. I recommend booking the Whale Watching Eco-Adventure from Costa Adeje, hearing the pilot whales click and whistle through the underwater microphone transforms the experience from sightseeing to connection.

The stretch of water between Tenerife and La Gomera holds a permanent resident pod of around 500 pilot whales, not migrating through, living here year-round. Most whale watching destinations have seasons; Tenerife has residents. You'll also see bottlenose and common dolphins on most trips, and if you're lucky, sea turtles surfacing beside the boat. The sighting rate is over 95%, the highest in Europe.

Tours leave from Los Cristianos, Puerto Colón, and Puerto de la Cruz. The south-west coast is generally calmest in the morning before the trade winds pick up around midday. A catamaran with a hydrophone, an underwater microphone that lets you hear the whales clicking and whistling, adds another layer to the experience. The pilot whales are especially vocal, and hearing their calls underwater changes how you see them. It's one thing to watch a whale surface; it's another to hear it talking to its family.

I joined a British family of four on a morning catamaran last spring. The mother had been nervous about bringing her two young sons, worried they would get bored or seasick. Then a pod of bottlenose dolphins started riding the bow wave, the boys were at the rail for the entire three hours, and the mother told me later that the hydrophone audio of the pilot whales had been playing on repeat in their rental car every day since.

Catamaran, RIB, or Sailing Yacht, Which Is Right for You?

Catamaran vs RIB, which boat is right for you? → Full comparison of stability, speed, price, and ride quality for Tenerife whale watching.

Watching Responsibly, How to Choose an Ethical Tour

Operators must maintain distance from the whales, no chasing, no encircling, no approaching from directly ahead. The resident pod is vulnerable because they don't leave the area; they're exposed to boat traffic every day. Choose operators who respect the guidelines and employ guides who switch off engines near the animals. Morning departures (9-10 AM) have calmer seas and less disturbance.

I've seen boats get too close. The responsible operators don't. A hydrophone-equipped tour is usually a sign of a more conscientious operator, they're invested in education, not just sightseeing.

Read the full ethical whale watching guide →, Legal rules, operator red flags, vessel impact comparison, and how to pick a tour that respects the resident pod.

When to Go

Year-round, but morning departures (9-10 AM) are suitable for calm seas. Winter months (December to February) have choppier conditions, choose a larger catamaran for stability. Most operators offer free cancellation up to 24 hours ahead, so you can book during peak season without worrying about weather.

Who These Tours Are NOT For

Whale watching tours aren't suitable if you're prone to severe seasickness, even on calm days, the Atlantic has a constant swell. If you're short on time in Tenerife (less than a full day), prioritise Teide or hiking over a boat tour. Children under three may find the longer tours tiring, though most operators allow infants at no charge. I'd also say skip the afternoon departures if you are prone to nausea, the trade winds pick up around midday and the swell gets noticeably rougher. And do not book a RIB if your priority is comfort or photography; the bumpy ride makes framing a shot nearly impossible and the spray soaks your lens.